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Following
on from the first article on makeup for beginners heres this much more
inclusive guide where Melanie will show you how to get a good basic look
suitable both for daytime and for clubbing. This is based on several standard
techniques for T-Girls with a few changes that Melanie has picked up along the
way to the basic application so even experienced T Girls may find some tips of
interest.
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This article includes video clips in RealPlayer 8 format. You can
either left click them and play then on-line if you have a fast connection or
right click and save them locally to your hard drive if your connection speed
is slow. Click the ikon to get RealPlayer FREE |
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| Application: Your foundation is the base of all
your other makeup and when you start you want to be able to create a smooth
base. Over time you'll find this gets easier and easier to do quite quickly but
at the start its important you spend time getting it right. None of the other
makeup will look good if your foundation isn't right. |
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| Applying
Foundation Video Clips VIDEO-1 |
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OK take your
foundation which should be as close as possible to your natural skin color and
apply it in stripes radiating away from the center of your face - see the
picture above far right (the foundation has been photo-edited to be very light
so you can see the ype of pattern to apply it in). I use Kryolan TV Paint Stick
for this as it covers well and blends very easily, its also quite economical.
You can purchase this form many TV Stores such as Doreens Fashions (see the
resources guide on the site
HERE)
Apply the stick very heavily around your beard area
painting it right over the beard in a solid pattern so no stripes just go right
over and completely paint the beard out. This should go as far as the base of
your neck. |
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| Applying
Foundation Video Clips VIDEO-2 |
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Blending in: Now you need to blend the foundation
in. So take a soft cosmetic sponge, it should be very slightly damp, and gently
wipe the foundation over to blend the stripes together. Your going for a smooth
overall finish. Over the beard area dab the foundation to make it go even and
smooth and gently blend the heavier beard cover with the lighter
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cover on
the rest of your face. Be sure to get into any clefts like the side of your
nose, under your chin etc. If you have any deep lines pull the skin taut and
run the sponge over them. make sure you wipe lightly over the eyelids and
sockets. Apply a light dabbing of the sponge to your ears, especially if your
wig will allow your ears to show. This is so your ears will be the same color
as your face. At the base of your neck blend the edge of the foundation into
your natural skin color.
Take your time here and dont rush a good foundation is
boring to apply but wil pay dividends later on. |
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| Concealer: This lightens up dark areas and also
helps to cover up any blemishes. It should be a few shades lighter than your
foundation. I apply this into my eye sockets and underneath the eyes in a sort
of 'Panda' |
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shape. I
also apply a strip down my nose this will help the nose look a little thinner
when the makeup is complete and also I apply a patch dead between the eyes
which will help make the eyes look open later on.
Apply the concealer quite
heavily and then gently blend at the edges with a cosmetic sponge into the base
foundation. When complete there should be no obvious join just a smooth change
from one color to the next. I use a Rimmel concealer stick which works well
with the Kryolan foundation. |
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Powder: Your powder 'sets' the foundation and
prevents it being greasy. There are assorted specialist powders but I find a
basic cheap one from Collection 2000 works out fine. The loose powder should be
as close a color match to the foundation as possible but don't worry if its not
exact.
Generously apply the powder with a |
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puffer and
then using a large soft powder brush run over the face and brush away the
excess powder.
Again if you have deep lines anywhere pull the skin taut and brush
the powder into the creases to make sure the foundation is covered and also of
course make sure powder doesn't build up in any areas like the sides of your
nose and that all areas are covered. Special attention to the beard area is
good and also apply the powder heaviest over the beard
zone.
At the end of this process your face should look smooth and
relatively featureless. Your now ready for the eye
make-up. |
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| Thre are
enough make-up styles for eyes that could fill a website twice the size of the
TV Zone. What I will show you here is a good general style that will work well
for most people. This style of eye makeup can be adapted for both day and
evening wear. For day wear use lighter colors for the dark shades and more
muted colors for the light shades. For evening wear the darker shades can be
much darker and the light shades much brighter and also can be more heaviliy
applied for a more dramatic look. First though its important to learn where the
eye makeup should actually be applied........ |
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Defining where: Your eye makeup shouldn't extend
beyond certain parameters. Imagine a line between the edge of your eye and the
end of the eyebrow on both the inner and outer corners of your eye. See the
pictures on the left. These are the lines that your eye shadow should stay
within. |
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Socket area: OK having noted where the eye shadow
should fall, and decided on your colors (browns, greys and charcoal
look good on most T girls) take a light color and with a large soft socket
brush apply a coat just above the eyelid and going all the way to just below
the eyebrow.
The color should be thickest at the |
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outside
edge and along the crease where the eyelid joins up with the socket. For the
pictures I used a slightly darker shade than normal so you can see the line.
Don't cover the lid itself, just the crease line. The light color of your
concealer needs to show through on the eyelid. This will help achieve a 'wide
open' look which will make your eyes seem larger when the makeup is
completed.
Now whether you go just above the lid as I do or exactly down the
crease will depend on your eye shape to a large extent. You will have to
experiment to get the best look for you. |
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| Hi-Lites 1: To make the eyes stand out I now
apply a hi-lite to the outer edge of the eye. This is applied under the eyebrow
and extends roughly from halfway across the eye ( you will need to experiment
to find what works best for you). I usually use a white or grey but for
clubbing I use a Rimmel |
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| Pearlescent opal color so it picks up any light and reflects it. I
also apply a strip on the top eyelid along the lash line, quite broad and also
a line UNDER the eye as close to the lashes as possible. The top lines on the
eyebrow and top lid are quite heavily applied while the under eye hi-light is
very lightly done. |
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Application of the highlight is best done with a foam applicator.
After its applied using a soft clean brush lightly run over it to remove any
excess flakes from the hi-lite and also to blend it to the rest of the makeup
both above and under the eye. Don't panic at this point if the color doesn't
seem very strong. We can add to it later as you will see. You highlight color
should be a good match with your other colors. Rimmels moonstone color is
perfect as it will match with anything and goes on very
easily. |
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| Socket Lines Revisited: Now after hi-lighting I
generally apply a darker socket line. This will be a much darker shade of the
color I used for the first socket line and will be darkest along the crease and
wider at the edge of the eye going from the edge of the lid to the start of the
hi-lite. I use a fine soft brush here and afterwards blend the colors
in. |
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| Top lines: Now I add definition to the eyes using
an eye-liner. My favorite eye-liner is an 'Eyeline Express' from Maybeline. It
has a felt pen style applicator that makes eye lines quite easy to achieve.
Starting at the inner edge of the eye at a point where the lashes start draw a
fine line to the outer edge of the eyelid. |
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Now
gradually apply some extra strokes at the edge of the eye to thicken the line
up at the outside edge. You will see the shape better in one of he later
pictures.
Tip from Melanie here; Most make-up people use a black eyeliner
however a recent make-over artist I used recommended a brown color. Its so dark
its almost black but she advised using a dark brown as it helps to make
the eyes look brighter. I was a teensy bit sceptical but have tried it an it
definitely works. Its only really usable if your blonde or redheaded but for
those of us with those colors its a real tip.
Also if you use a liquid
eyeliner its a good idea to get yourself a fine artists brush or modelling
brush. They will apply the eyeline much better than the brushes that come with
most liquid eyeliners. |
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Inner Edge: Not everyone
will need this or look their best with it but I usually add an inner edge to
the top lines. Using a soft Kohl pencil apply a line from where the top line
ends right to the edge of the eye just UNDER the lid. Be CAREFUL here. DON'T
try and get this on in one go. Just gently brush the pencil along the edge of
the lid - where it joins the eye surface and repeat until the color
'takes' |
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Bottom lines: Many make-up artists use the same
for the bottom lines as the top. I use a slightly different approach. Using the
same color as your darkest shadow color, take a stiff brush and gently apply a
line under the eye. Right along the lash line.
If you have struggled with the bottom lines using an
eyeliner pencil try this..... |
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Hi Lite 2: Often when
getting the top lines on I find that I have either misjudged the top lids
hi-lite or simply want to reinforce the color a bit. Same for the lines under
the eyebrow. Once the top lines are dry I will apply some more highlight. It
doesn't matter if this gets on the top line too much as it wont cover the line
color and may actually help with the blending process a
bit............ |
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| Blending: Once the eyeliner is dry
take a soft brush and gently run over both the top and bottom lines so soften
them. Don't run the brush in just one direction because you will cause dark
areas to build up so go gently one way then the
other. |
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Mascara: I use a dark brown mascara to match my
eye lines but black is fine for most people. The easiest way to get mascara on
is to open the eyes wide. DON'T watch the wand with the eye, look only at your
reflection in the mirror to help suppress the blink reflex. Position the wand
just under the lash and blink onto it. |
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Apply the
mascara quite quickly before it starts to go sticky. If it starts to dry before
your finished just leave it and re-apply in about 10 minutes time. That will
avoid it going all 'gluey; and making your lashes too
spiky.
Modern make-up styles require only the top lashes to be colored.
Leave the bottom lashes alone. |
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| Eyebrows: To finish off the eyes I
just need to add the eyebrows. Take an eyebrow pencil and just gently brush it
through your eyebrows along a line that you want to show. If you have big bushy
eyebrows then the foundation will have helped to cover them and the pencil will
just help define the line you want to
show. |
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| Once the
color has taken use a small amount hair gel on an eyebrow brush to run across
the eyebrows with. This will help keep them looking
sharp.
If you don't have gel you can spray some hairspray onto a brush but be careful
because it can remove your foundation quite easily. |
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| Applying and
Blending the Blusher VIDEO-18 |
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Setting the line: Broadly speaking your blusher
should run in a line from the top of the ear to the corner of your mouth. In
short it should run under your cheekbone. If in doubt suck your cheeks in and
see where the high point is. The blusher should run along that.
Application: Take your blusher brush and
gently apply blush from the top of the ear. Build the color up slowly and
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| DON'T rush.
If you mess up now you will have spoiled the entire makeup. Don't overdo the
blusher. You just need a gentle 'flush' to your coloring to warm the face up
and give it some definition you dont want to look like Co-Co the clown.
Generally as a rule I would tell people if the blusher (or any of the makeup)
looks obvious then you probably have too much on. |
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Extras: I usually apply a very tiny amount of
blusher to the sides of my nose to help make the nose look slimmer and also to
my temples. This has the effect of making the face look a bit slimmer and
longer. Of course if you have a very pert feminine nose or a slim face you can
skip this step. |
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| Setting the line: I don't usually bother with a
lipstick line but sometimes it comes in handy especially with some lipsticks
which tend to 'bleed' badly as it acts as a barrier. Use your liner to set a
strong line along the top and bottom lips. Whether you go for a 'cupids bow'
shape or a more modern blocky shape will be your own
choice. |
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| Application: I mostly use a standard lipstick
tube but some people prefer to apply a paint style lipstick with a brush. This
is the easy part for me. Just roll the lipstick on inside the lip line. You
need to go all the way to the corners of your mouth here. Like the eye shadow,
darker colors generally work best for us T Girls. |
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Extras: Finally using the same hi-lite color as
for the eyes I apply some of this on the lower lip. You can do this just as a
small 'blob' at the center or as a slightly elongated line. Now rub your lips
together to blend it and there you are. A nice shiny and pouty pair of lips.
Perfect ! |
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| Small video of
Melanie fully made up HERE |
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All
you need now is your wig added and your finished. You will find when you add
the wig the make-up REALLY comes through and looks good. Its often quite
misleading when your making up without the wig as it can cause you to overdo
some elements of the make-up. Over time you will learn to compensate for this
during the make-up process |
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soon get great results with a little practice. I hope other girls will find
this article of use and will have as much fun trying out the techniques as I
had making the article. |
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As an addendum to this tutorial I thought I would include a
small section on what most often goes wrong and how to fix small
mistakes.
Eye shadow goes over its limits -
outside edge of eye....
If its because you have gone outside the
edge of the eye the easiest fix it to take your cosmetic sponge that will still
be loaded with foundation and gently brush away the excess makeup. You may need
to re-apply powder and blend it back in.
Eyeshadow goes over its limits - too
much applied an now too dark
Use a firm
brush to remove as much as possible and then use some concealer and re-blend it
in. If you have applied lots of dark color or liner this probably wont work and
you'll just have to strip the make-up and start
again.
Eyeshadow fragments got on my makeup
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If when you apply makeup to your eyes you find that
fragments or loose parts of the eye shafow powder are getting onto your cheeks
heres a handy tip. Before applying the eyemake up take a powder puff and apply
a very heavy amount to just under your eyes on the top of your cheek bone. If
the eye makeup gets on this you can simply brush it away at the end of your eye
make-up process.
Eye lines have gone to hell - too
wobbly.
Well practice makes perfect to get rid of these
faults. But if your stuck you can take a stiff brush and gradually brush it
off. Eye liner is generally quite brittle once dry and if you have foundation
on underneath it generally doesn't grip on too hard. A stiff brush will break
it up and allow you to remove it. You can then re-apply
it.
Eyeline or
Mascara got on my eye shadow or foundation....
OK. Don't panic - if the mascara or
eyeliner is still wet then a moist cotton bud will remove small errors caused
by blinking etc. If you cant get it off quickly then let it dry and scrape it
off with a stiff brush. If you have badly smudged it then you should remove the
affected area and try to patch the makeup as best you can. If the smudging
isn't too bad wait for it to dry and use concealer over the top, then re-powder
and blend in.
Too much
blusher applied.
Tricky to fix in most cases. Try using a
powder brush to run over the blush and remove as much as you can then apply
your loose powder over the blusher to try and mute it down. If neither of these
works then your
stuck.
Lips messed
up...lipstick bled into foundation or smudged on
foundation.
Lipsticks a nightmare if it gets on the foundation.
Its so greasy it can be tricky to remove. Use a dry tissue to soak up the
grease in it and gently scrub it off. Re-apply foundation and powder and
re-blend.
Lipstick faults
although a nuisance are seldom fatal to the rest of the makeup. If its a real
disaster you can usually strip the makeup off the lower part of the face and
re-apply without too much trouble.
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